Monthly Archives

September 2017

A Saturday cycle through nature in Hoge Veluwe National Park

written by Sarah

The weather has been lovely in the Netherlands this weekend – bright blue sky and 20C/68F with lots of sunshine. Having been here for some time now, we know we should enjoy good weather when it appears – so an adventure was called for! We had been discussing a trip to the nearby Hoge Veluwe National Park with friends, and happily the stars of good weather and open schedules aligned for a Saturday afternoon away.

About the park

Hoge Veluwe is outside of Arnhem, a mid-sized city about an hour’s drive east of Utrecht. As the country is quite developed with a high population density, ‘natural’ land can be hard to come by. There are, however, a number of preserved areas and parks which showcase the unique ecosystems of the sandy, low-lying, coastal country, with Hoge Veluwe being one of them.

Although it is possible to take the train to Arnhem and bus/bike to the park, it is a bit easier and quicker to rent a Greenwheels car-share car, which is what we decided upon. After picking up our friends in Utrecht we pointed ourselves east – driving our little Volkswagon Up through the flat polders of farmland, and finally reaching gently rolling hills and forests close to Hoge Veluwe.

Combining nature and art

Hoge Veluwe exists thanks to a wealthy Dutch/German couple – Anton Kröller and Helene Müller who started developing the estate in 1909. Kröller was an avid hunter, and purchased a significant track of land, which was then managed for game. His wife had a passion for art, and amassed quite a collection of it – especially contemporary art – which includes one of the largest collections of Vincent Van Gogh’s work. The couple was keen to share the combination of nature and art with the public, and – in collaboration with the Dutch government – the couple created a museum for the art on the estate and converted it to a National Park for all to enjoy.

Phil and I had visited Hoge Veluwe before to visit the Kröller-Müller Museum, which is absolutely wonderful. The Van Gogh collection is indeed stunning, covering the different phases of the painter’s short but prolific career, with some of my favorites like the Four Cut Sunflowers and the Portrait of Joseph Roulin. I also remember some lovely Signac and Seurat paintings, as well as a rotating contemporary art exhibit and lovely sculpture garden.

Enjoying the park

This trip, however, was dedicated to getting outside and enjoying the weather. Hoge Veluwe is also famous for its free white bicycles (1,800 of them in total!), which can be borrowed from any entrance to the park, and used to pedal through the many kilometers of bicycle paths that bisect the park’s forests, dunes, heath and fields.

In order to fuel our ride, however, we first stopped at ‘Ijs van Co’ – a little ice cream shop in a town at the north-eastern entrance to the park, called Hoenderloo. We had also stopped here on our previous trip and loved it – this return did not disappoint! The ice cream is homemade soft serve – spooned out with a scoop. It only comes in vanilla, but is so delicious and creamy that it is one of my top-10 ice creams ever…which for me is saying something! 😊

Nature in the Netherlands

Energy and blood sugar levels high, we left the car at the park entrance, and walked a short distance to pick out our white bicycles. The first path we struck out on took us immediately into a lovely coniferous forest, with flitting birds and the sweet smell of pine and moss in the air. The path continued – winding in and out of mixed forest patches and open grassland fields. With the deciduous trees beginning to turn colors for autumn, and the sun filtering through the branches and pine boughs, it was a beautiful, peaceful ride. We stopped quite a few times for pictures, found many mushrooms, fallen acorns and chestnuts, and late season flowers.

When we reached the teahouse at the hunting lodge on the estate – which sits on a lovely pond, we stopped for a break and picnic. Refueled again, we continued on through the rest of the northern section of the park – passing into sandy heath and sand dunes – with many small coniferous trees and pleasant vistas. Here we saw a few of the red deer that the grounds are famous for (though too far away for a picture!) and enjoyed the softening colors of the sky as the sun began to set.

Bicycling past the museum, though too late to go inside, we headed back to the car along a different path. Again, passing through mixed forests and open fields we chatted and enjoyed the passing scenery in the early evening twilight. Back at the Hoenderloo entrance, we parked our bicycles along with the others and walked back to the car – tired but content, with lungs full of fresh forest air and thoughts of nature in our heads.

The ride home passed quickly, and ended in the dark. Everyone seemed happy to be home and cozy, but also to have enjoyed the adventure, so it was considered a success! We noticed that there is a camp ground at the park, and as Phil and I have yet to use the tent we brought all this way, perhaps during our next visit we can stay a little longer, and explore the rest of the park! Until then, we will enjoy the pictures and thoughts, and knowing that such a lovely relaxing place is only an hour away!

September 30, 2017 1 comment

Life Travel

A September beach get-away in the Netherlands

written by Sarah

This weekend Phil and I made a last grasp at summer and headed for the beach. Visiting the wind-blown, sandy seaside – with rolling grass-covered dunes on one side and the white-capped North Sea on the other – is a decidedly Dutch experience, and coming from the Great Lakes region, it’s one we thoroughly enjoy. (It is also easy to see why Dutch immigrants settled along the western coast of Michigan…the two sets of farmlands meeting sand dunes and a great expanse of water feel very much the same!)

At any rate, somehow our summer was quite busy (and seemed to have a disproportionate number of cool rainy weekends) so we had not yet made it for our annual trip to the beach. But since we have experienced lots of nice September weather since we’ve been here, and with this weekend relatively free, it seemed like as good a time as any to get away. We also had a good deal on a hotel we needed to use, so decided to make a small, one-night trip of it.

Getting there

The hotel, Hogerhuys, was in Noordwijk, a beach town outside of the university town of Leiden (and close to the famous bulb fields and Keukenhof Gardens of Lisse, which bring over 1 million visitors to the province of South Holland every spring.) Originally, we had planned to take our bicycles on the train to Leiden (about an hour train ride from Utrecht) and to cycle the remaining 40 minutes to Noordwijk, but the weather was uncooperative – with wind, rain and thunderstorms threatening throughout the weekend. In the end, we reserved the car-share car parked down the street from our apartment, and stayed comfortably warm and dry on our rainy hour-long Saturday afternoon drive.

Thankfully, by the time we arrived in Noordwijk, the storms were blowing through, and after checking in to the hotel we had a lovely, refreshing walk on the beach. We looked at flotsam washed ashore, stopped for coffee and a snack at the Branding Beach Club (a lovely beachside restaurant) and eventually enjoyed the sunset filtering through the remnants of the storm clouds.

Noordwijk

Noordwijk struck me as very similar to the other Dutch seaside towns that we have visited, with cute, storm-ready houses and hotels nestled in between the dunes, which give more change in elevation than is usual in such a flat country! There was a pedestrian shopping street as well, though everything seemed to be closing up shop at the end of the day and likely for the end of the summer season. In fact, we had hoped to rent bicycles, but being late in the day on Saturday, and with most places being closed on Sundays, we struck out with finding anything at all. Instead this meant that we enjoyed a slower paced wander on the beach, which was a lovely up-close experience in itself.

We ended the evening with a cozy dinner in the hotel restaurant, and fell asleep to the sound of the wind blowing between the dunes. The next morning the sun was shining through the morning mist, and the ever-present North Sea wind was chasing gray and white clouds across a blue sky. After a hearty hotel breakfast (nearly always a scrumptious affair in Europe) we checked out and moved our car to a beach-side parking lot for a few more hours of stretching our legs and breathing the fresh ocean air.

Beach combing

It seemed like we were in good company…although there were only a few intrepid, wet-suit clad surfers, and one brave father-daughter pair swimming in the ocean, the beach was most busy with lots of groups, families, kids and very, very happy dogs. Almost all were well bundled for a hike in the wind, and seemed to be thoroughly enjoying the brisk beach of September. Phil and I walked along the surf, hiked a bit in the dunes, and finally stopped back at the same beachside restaurant for an alfresco lunch on the terrace, soaking up the sun along with many Dutch families, before turning our sights back toward Utrecht.

All-in-all it was a quick, lovely and relaxing weekend trip. It felt good to visit the beach and stretch our legs a bit. It was also nice to see life in this part of the Netherlands again, and to remember the Dutch connection to the temperamental sea. Now back to reality and a busy week of work…here’s hoping everyone had a wonderful and relaxing weekend as well, and a good start to the week!

September 18, 2017 0 comment

Life Sustainability

In praise of the European drying rack

written by Sarah

A small piece of everyday European life that has made a significant impression on me is the lowly drying rack. Dryers – those big boxy, sweet-smelling clothes heaters – are wonderful and convenient, and by golly, I do miss having one. (We haven’t had one here since the communal one in our first apartment building…sigh.) The silver lining of this, however, is that we have saved quite a bit of energy (and, by extension, money!) drying our clothes on a drying rack.

An oh-so-convenient energy hog

IB:14-05-A, NRDC, June 2014

Clothes dryers actually use quite a bit of energy – a recent study in the US indicated that Americans spend $9 billion dollars per year (!) on the electricity used to dry clothes. So, in the grand scheme of things, the energy used drying clothes can make quite an impact on one’s resource usage and carbon footprint!

The drying rack challenge

Back home, with an easily accessible dryer, I often found the drying rack to be rather frustrating and cumbersome. There I would often hang my delicate or shrinkable clothes to dry on a flimsy wooden/plastic rack, which – although it folded up nicely for storage – did not hold many clothes, and broke a few years into use, so that it finally ended up in the trash when we moved.

But here, where dryers seem to be a bit harder to come by, the average drying rack is quite nice. The one that came with our furnished apartment is a sturdy, coated-metal rack that folds up flat for storage in a laundry closet, but when folded out can hold more than a load of laundry on its efficiently spaced wire bars. This allows us to dry the laundry inside, without taking up much space – great for the notoriously unpredictable Dutch weather! Depending on what is washed, the laundry is usually dry in ~6-8 hours. Although we do have to plan laundry a bit ahead of time, by now this seems normal to us, and is largely figured in to our weekly schedule.

The European drying rack

These sorts of drying racks do seem to be available in the US, but are rather hard to come by, and seem to be relatively expensive – probably a supply and demand thing? For instance, this rack, a bit more hefty than ours, seems to cost ~$75/€65 in the US, and ~$50/€40 in the Netherlands. On the other hand, this one, quite like ours, seems to cost ~$55/€48 in the US and ~$42/€35 in the Netherlands, so perhaps not as bad as it seems!

Whatever the case, drying racks definitely seem to be popular here – I have seen more than one biking home from the store under someone’s arm, and there has been a version in each and every apartment we’ve seen. I once mentioned my appreciation of the drying rack prevalence in Europe to a Scottish acquaintance, who was surprised that it was a unique thing – saying she had never had a dryer in all her years living in Scotland and Europe!

Convenient in its simplicity

At any rate, the simplicity, sturdiness and energy efficiency of this little device really appeals to me, and has endeared it to me in the time that we’ve been here. It’s just a great tool for our simple, little life. Although it is true that drying and folding laundry takes a greater proportion of our time, there is something rather satisfying about a well-organized rack of clean clothes drying under its own power – and really, the clothes are half-way to folded by the time they dry, which speeds that part of the process along. Although I will, by all means, enjoy throwing a quick load of laundry in the dryer the next time we have one, I will always have a soft spot in my heart, and a place in my laundry room, for a lovely, sturdy drying rack.

Anyway, I am interested to hear what you think! Would you consider drying some of your clothes on a rack? Or do you already do so? Do you have a favorite drying rack or do you have memories of using one in the past (outdoor lines count too!)? Or do you have any questions about them? I am interested to hear what you think, so let me know in the comments…now off I go to hang up the next load!

September 10, 2017 1 comment

Culture Life

So, what is life in Europe like, anyway?

written by Sarah

When we learned we were moving to the Netherlands, Phil and I had plenty of expectations and preconceived notions about what we were getting ourselves into.

We had both had the privilege of visiting the continent before (for travel, to visit family and friends, and for work) and we were both excited (and a little nervous) about the proposition of living in a place that, for all intents and purposes, felt ‘exotic’.

We had visited Amsterdam together previously in December 2012 – when, coming back from my dear cousin’s wedding in the south of Germany, we had had a 12 hour, overnight layover in Amsterdam. Thinking this might be our only chance to see the Netherlands, we took the train into the city center from Schiphol airport.

Amsterdam at night.

That night we walked around the misty canals, smelled the smoke wafting from the coffee shops, dodged boisterous revelers and drunken stag parties, and ate frites (fries) with mayo and snacks from FEBO, the (in)famous ‘vending machine’ fast food, before returning to Schiphol for a restless few hours of sleep on the floor and our early morning flight.

At the time, Amsterdam felt like a truly foreign place, but as I think back on it now – how often we have walked through Amsterdam Centraal Station and along the canals with friends and family, or on a Saturday afternoon – it is interesting how such foreign things start to feel normal and familiar. Like anything and anywhere in life – people are people, places and things become commonplace, and life goes on!

Similar, but different

Domkerk, Utrecht.

That being said, there are many things that still feel different and new about living in Europe. The layers of history here are deep, complex and interwoven into everyday life. Our city of Utrecht was a settlement on the northern edge of the Roman Empire in ~50 AD – though before that it was probably occasionally inhabited by humans in the stone and bronze ages.

Today, the city’s defining feature is the awe-inspiring Gothic church and it’s Dom Tower – a Catholic cathedral until it was gutted during the Reformation, remaining a Protestant church today. The buildings stonework, flying buttresses and beautiful courtyard garden make me think of Quasimodo and fairy tales.

This – coupled with the beautiful bi-level canals lined by the distinctive architecture of Dutch row houses and the cobblestone streets bisecting the historic city center – often feels (to this North American, at least!) like you are living on the set of a movie, or in Disney World. My daily bicycle commute takes me past the Dom Tower, and I am regularly struck by how beautiful it is in the morning or evening light and in all kinds of weather, often with clamorous carillons sounding the time of day or playing beautiful music.

Integrated daily living

In addition to this deep-seated sense of history, our day-to-day experience also feels quite a bit different than life back home. In general, daily living feels strikingly integrated here. We live within three blocks of a grocery store, a number of bakeries, restaurants, a hardware store, a hair salon, our gym, a park, a pharmacy, and our doctor and dentist’s offices. These are a bit smaller than their counterparts in North America, but they generally have everything we need, and are quite seamlessly integrated into a friendly, walkable (and bikeable!) neighborhood. I think this may be magnified by living close to the city center – but overall, small, often locally-owned businesses are woven more completely into the fabric of the neighborhood here than in similar places that I have lived back home.

A sunny summer terrace – Vismarkt, Utrecht.

This does change how we approach daily life. Most significantly, I think, it means that we have been entirely able to get by without owning a car for the past three years. We do have driver’s licenses, and have a subscription to a car-share service that is parked close by, though we hardly ever use it. We have occasionally also rented a car if we want to go on a longer trip with a group of people and need more flexibility than you get with the train – but overall, bicycles and public transportation have been the easiest way to get wherever we need to go.

I love riding my bike and find a train commute much more relaxing than sitting in rush-hour traffic in a car, so I thoroughly enjoy this aspect of life here. It did, however, take us a bit of time to get used to doing our shopping more regularly, in smaller batches. When we first arrived, we would get everything for the week at once (as we used to back home), and would get some strange looks from others at the store as they took in our overflowing conveyor belt of groceries, and our bulging shopping bags.

Over time, our traditional weekly trips to the grocery store with a big list, many bags, and a car to bring it all home has morphed into more frequent, smaller stops at the conveniently located stores. Sometimes I stop at the train station on my way home from work, sometimes Phil swings by the neighborhood store for milk or bread after he gets home. We do still stock up on the necessities in one larger weekend trip (old habits die hard!) but we carry it all home on bike or by foot, so we keep it as light and manageable as possible.

Interestingly, the grocery stores will also deliver orders of groceries for a small fee, which is how I understand some busy Dutch families do it. Phil and I live so close to the store that we have not tried this yet…but maybe someday!

Availability of public transportation

Along similar lines, public transportation is incredibly prevalent and easy to use here. Many a North American traveler has enjoyed the freedom of crisscrossing the continent with a Euro-rail train pass, but I have also been impressed with how conveniently connected things are here for our daily needs. Of course, this varies from country to country – I have been privy to more than one conversation with coworkers about the merits or detractions of various train systems (commuting by train in London does not sound like fun, for instance.)

This conversation often starts on a day where there have been delays on the Dutch trains (when they work, they work quite well, but when there is a problem, everything grinds quite quickly to a halt – and there have been a few days where I chose to work from home rather than wait for the tangled mess to sort itself out.) In these instances, the Dutch are quite adamant that their trains are often frustratingly late and problematic – but to me, they seem to be quite smooth and efficient. Nothing wrong with striving for perfection though, I suppose!

Amsterdam Zuid train station.

As with the bicycling, however, I am always thankful for the train portion of my commute – catching up on news, emails, chats with friends and family or a meditation. We have also taken trains to and through many corners of Europe (to Paris and Germany, through Poland and the Czech Republic, around Stockholm, Barcelona, London and Copenhagen, etc. – augmented by metros, trams and buses in the cities). Thus far, we have always found them to be pleasant, convenient ways to get around, and enjoy the freedom that they bring to our European adventures.

Diversity of cultures, languages and cultural identities

I am also always impressed by the variety of cultures, languages and identities that seem to coexist in Europe. Of course, there are significant historical and sociopolitical backstories and nuance to all of this, and it is not easy…it’s a topic that could fill blogs of its own. But regardless, the open borders of today’s European Union mean that our experience living here is a rich and multicultural one.

We have dear friends from all corners of Europe and the world, and can easily spend a weekend in a completely different country, which speaks an entirely different language, and has a unique cuisine, history and cultural identity. I also work in a global organization with coworkers from more countries that I can count, and constantly enjoy the diversity and energy that this brings to our work culture.

There are, of course, many similarities and common threads through the countries, and also sometimes disagreement and discord. But overall I have been impressed by the way these counties work together, and have enjoyed the experience immensely.

A grand adventure

Oudegracht, Utrecht.

At any rate, our experience living in Europe has been an amazing adventure so far, and one we have thoroughly enjoyed. We still get homesick, and of course miss our family and friends back home dearly – though we have been lucky enough to get to see them once or twice a year. But overall, we have enjoyed settling in to life here, and gaining some idea of what it is like to live in the Netherlands and Europe on a more permanent basis.

Our experience is only one of many, and other experiences, times and interpretations could be quite different! Does this sound like what you expected life in Europe to be like? Does anything here surprise you? Have you had or heard of experiences living in Europe that are similar? Or totally, completely different? And is there anything you want to know about what life is like here or what we have been up to? If so, let me know in the comments…I would love to hear more!

September 3, 2017 6 comments